The TwoUp is the larger version of the OneUp, being the lowest priced 3D printer on the planet as the TwoUp adds 75mm on both the X and Y axis in build area; the Z-axis stays the same at 125mm. At $279 for a self assembled kit, that includes everything you need,making the TwoUp an easy choice to ‘get your feet wet’ especially if you want the ability to make large objects. Look on any internet form and they recommend a self built printer as your first printer so you learn the ins and outs, as well as the ups and downs of 3D printing before making a bigger purchase.
With theTwoUp, professional quality prints are a reality in your home which are equivalent to much more expensive machines at competitive speeds with the ability to expand the build area at a later date. Each kit includes a very reliable and forgiving extruder (which is important as a starter printer), that makes it easy to get great quality prints with minimal effort. The TwoUp is optimized for PLA printing but with the optional heated bed upgrade, ABS and Nylon printing are a breeze! This is a Do-It-Yourself, Self-Assembly kit that generally takes 2-8 hours to assemble based on end user skill level.
With all of this said, we will be doing a video series on the build of this printer to help others follow along and see what this all about and if this right for you! So get a favorite beverage, kick back and lets watch some video!
In this episode we will look at Part 1 for our 2 Watt laser diode based cutting head project we sourced from eBay.com. In the next episode we will start the assembly of the diode (which is static sensitive) into the brass TO housing and solder power wires to it. After that we will connect the laser driver and power up the laser.
Note: This is a dangerous project as at 2 Watts, this laser can do a lot of damage and even if you know what your doing this can be dangerous!
OneUp / TwoUp X Gantry Replacement url: www.thingiverse.com/thing:248059
Part file names:
Right = Twoup_xgr95_v17 (imperial version Twoup_xgr80_v17 is metric)
Left = Twoup_xgl_v19
Slider = Twoup_xgc_v17
Build specs Fill is 30% (or higher) and Layer height is 0.2, with build times being:
Right = 6.5 Hours
Left = 9.5 Hours
Slider = 4.5 hours
Note: Twoup_xpg_v17 is a peg or plug and you will need to print 6 of these for pluging one end of each rod on all three housings.
Also as mentioned in the video, would suggest printing all the parts standing up for better results even if it takes a bit more support fill.
So we where having a number of issues with the XYZprinting Da Vinci 2.0 Duo 3D Printer in the lab, first layers weren’t sticking, prints failing, etc. So we decided to recalibrate the print bed however when we did it failed and kept failing! Panic set in, what to do was it broken? XYZprinting claims you can forget calibrating so now what do we do send it back?
Well in the end we figured it out and decided to make a video about how we did it because when we searched the internet we weren’t the only ones with this problem. Now the video show a number of steps, however the key is all three numbers MUST be within 20 (+/-) of each other for the calibration to be successful. as what the XYZprinting Da Vinci 2.0 Duo 3D Printer does is make this measurement and than adjust the gcode when it comes in for this delta and it appears it can only deal with a deal with a delta of +/- 20 units (assume they are steps).
Also, here is the page (click here) from the XYZprinting Da Vinci 2.0 Duo 3D Printer manual showing the details. Now keep in mind for each and every “cycle” the print must heat to account for expansion at temperature so it can take a bit.
Note: it doesn’t take a lot to turn one of the knobs so start out with small turns (i.e. movements) and one [knob] at a time so you can (1) see how much affect a movement has as well as (2) the direction the movement (of the knob) takes you in.
While the instructions are not clear, I am guess these are “steps” and frankly would have to guess that the smaller the numbers. The more truly level the bed will be (as opposed to “square”) and therefore the better the first layer will stick.
So we just got ourQ3D v2 TwoUp printer kit in and wanted to do an unboxing and talk about why we went this route to build our next 3D printer as many people out there are likely interested and thinking should they or shouldn’t they. Well there is no question that a lot of these have been sold and there are tons of upgraded designs out there which can make this a winning printer for very few dollars if someone is willing to invest the efforts in building it with the extra-mods which we will document. So stay tuned as there will be more videos coming on this very soon as the DaVinci is busy printing a whole host of upgraded parts! In addition we will also start a build page for all the links!
So here is the time lapse video of the Probitix Fireball v90 CNC router running Chilipeppr via Arduino and GRBL software. Also in the video we have the string settings which we are using for garble so if you want to try the same this should provide reference point.
So we’ve now got the Probiotix Fireball V 90 running with all the major GRBL front ends including Chilipeppr, GCode sender and Easel. We have noticed a couple strange things, one of them being GRBL wants to flip the X and Y axis. This is in both the nature (i.e. X becomes Y and Y becomes X) and direction, to correct this we’ve had to use change the GRBL string $3=3 (inverting both x & y) to mask the directions of each access. With regards to the X and Y axis flip, we have tried inverting the wiring to reverse them, however this only results in what appears to be a mirror image when cutting sort of like from the bottom up rather than the top-down. So to correct for this we’ve just allowed the flip in axises and simply changed the homing location and perspective of the material which seems to work just fine. Watching the video you can see we’ve cut out several rather complex shapes without issue. However one of the interesting things you will notice in the video, there still is one part abandoning the material and this was caused by “user error”, as I forgotten and unplug the laptop causing the battery run out while sending G code, Oops. However other then several minor challenges overall the conversion process has gone rather easily, And in fact has been quite a bit of fun as my goal with all this was to create a simpler workflow and both Easel and Chilipeppr filled this goal. However I must say with regards to just GCode sender the jury’s a bit out as I’m concerned as how effective that is, (because it is quirky compared to others) but hey it’s still early in the game. So look for some more updates soon Will be doing the final install of the Arduino on top of the Probotix driver box an the final wiring to complete this project so once that’s done I will do the video on that as well along with a video on the configuration file for GRBL itself.
In this episode we going to the shop and wire in our Arduino with GRBL into the Probotix Fireball V 90 CNC router. Again this is a rather simple build in we will solder the pins from the DB-25 parallel port connector into the header pins of the Arduino and once this is completed we will be able to control the Probotix Fireball P90 CNC router via the free Gcode sender or an application such as ChilliPeper or Easel.
So in this episode we are going to look at wiring the Arduino running GRBL to a parallel port CNC machine control yet before you get too concerned this is actually a pretty simple project as what we’re going to cover are the pinouts from the Arduino and matching them up with the opinions of the standard parallel port again most of this is simple soldering to a DB 25 connector which we will plug into the parallel port.
Probotix Pinouts: www.probotix.com/wiki/index.php/PBX-2
Arduino w/GRBL Pinouts:github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Connecting-Grbl
So we’ve been doing a lot of experimentation in the lab lately with motion control and one of the latest projects we’ve been working on is converting our Probotix Fireball V 90 from parallel port control using Mach 3 to using GRBL on the Arduino as a replacement. The reason for this is we want to take advantage of the many second-generation programs out there such as Easel and others which streamline the workflow of the CNC process. However one of the first challenges is getting GRBL on your Arduino itself and to do this we took a quick scan of the Internet and couldn’t find any good videos demonstrating how this process works, so the next step was to create one of our own and in this video we will show you how to flash the Arduino and send commands to GRBL and more importantly where to find all this in addition below we have placed the key URL links to what you will see in the video there so they are easy to find.
Github Zip Download
So we finally got it done, the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor gimbal we downloaded and remixed from Thingiverse (www.thingiverse.com/thing:794786 and www.thingiverse.com/thing:325876). This project was so cool, it involved 3D printing, electronics and code writing. What more could you ask for, oh and a camera too! Well check out the video and the Thingiverse links for the gimbal & tripod are above and the links for the GoPro arm and gimbal base are on TinkerCad here (www.tinkercad.com/things/1xm4ZRDMeuy-gopro-to-28byj-48-mount and www.tinkercad.com/things/kkIE3qFwVO1-28byj-48-gimbal-base). Also a link to the 28BYJ-48 stepper motors can be found below along with the XYZprinting Da Vinci 2.0 Duo 3D Printer which was use to print this out with an Arduino controller.
So when you need something what is the first thing you do? Well if you have a 3D printer it is to visit Thingiverse and look for what you need, download it and print away. Well that is what we did when we needed a small tripod for the gimbal project we where working on. It turned out so well we created a video as if you need a small tripod, this is worth the plastic. One extra note is you will have to also design and print you inter-bushing for the 1/4″ 20 TPI rod, we liked this as it also allows us to customize things a bit.
Tripod link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:325876